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Anuradhapura
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6-7th March 2005
Anuradhapura is the great kingdom of Sri Lanka, lasting from the 3rd century BC, until the 7th Century AD. It was the Sinhalese capital for over 1,000 years, (off and on), and it was repeatedly invaded and then temporarily ruled by South Indians.
We arrived in Anuradhapura and quickly parted company with our driver. It was a quick parting because we thought he was crap and he knew he was crap so it was a simple handing over the cash and bye. We took to riding a bike around Anuradhapura.
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Another sunrise and we went to Sri Maha Bodhi, the scared Bodhi tree. The Bodhi tree is the mother of the tree we saw in Bodhgaya in India. The original Bodhi tree in Bodhgaya that died, was also the mother of the tree here, so the cuttings have been taken backwards and forwards for over 2,500 years.
This tree has been tended by guardians for over 2,000 years making it the oldest authenticated tree in the world.
We were here early expecting to see numerous pilgrims, but the tree complex itself was a bit of a building site and it was not possible to circumambulate at all.
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We past the Brazen palace and its 1,600 stone pillars but found this monkey more interesting. He was riding pillion without a driver and periodically reached forward to rip large chunks of foam off the seat.
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This is Jason getting scammed! An innocent monkey feeding on peanuts. Jason leaked a few rupees from his wallet when he discovered the peanuts weren't free. The man walking alongside the monkey soon had his hands on the rupees.
Having a monkey eating peanuts on your shoulder did help get over the fact that the last monkey that was this close had his teeth in Jason's arse. (See Emei Shan.)
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The Ruvanvelisaya Dagoba stands at 55 metres. This was thought to have once been much higher, but it has suffered from continuous damage of South Indian invasions.
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A frieze of elephants surround the Dagobas platforms. Apparently some on the Western side are originals from 140BC. After we entered from the East and found the West the gate locked we soon lost interest.
We left the heavily fortified Maha Vihara (great temple) complex and went looking for our bikes that were parked miles away.
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A few monks were around offering prayers.
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For every monk there were 10 stalkers. We were stalked for postcards, coins, statues you name it they had it. Claire even asked if he had a stone Ganesh that we forgot to buy in India. Expecting this to stump him, Claire started to smile, only to be beaten when he reached in his little basket and pulled one out to her horror.
Some people would ask us for English coins for their collection. When we said no they would ask if we wanted to buy some!
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The Jetavana Dagoba and monastic complex was pretty amazing. There must be over 100 ruined buildings in the complex and the glory is the Dagoba. Originally it would have stood over 100m, much higher than its present 70m. An old British guidebook suggests the solid brick structure has enough bricks to build a 3m high wall from London to Edinburgh.
The bamboo scaffold up the side is a more modern wonder of architectural suicide.
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As we moved into the palace compound Claire decided to really go nuts at the bugs, spiders or whatever else it was stalking her at the time.
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The Mahapali refectory was particularly interesting for its huge stone trough that the lay people would have struggled to keep full of rice for the monks.
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The bigger of the twin ponds.
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For the Abhayagiri group we seemed to spend most of time avoiding a group of 300 school children. Everywhere we have been in Sri Lanka there a huge groups of kids out and about exploring their cultural heritage. Very cool.
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The greatest moonstone (old-school doormat) in Sri Lanka marked the entrance to the Mahasen's Palace.
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The steps to the place had rows of dwarfs holding-up the stairs.
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It was getting late in the afternoon and the local men were rounding their cows up by motorbike. We still had to go to Mihintale for sunset or else, sin upon sins, Claire would lose a day on the beach in Hikkaduwa.
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A swift bicycle ride back to the hotel sneakily included one more museum, three more Dagobas, and the Isuruminaya Vihara (rock temple). Unfortunately the light hearted argument with the bored army boys at the entrance to Tissa Wewa bund meant that we didn't have enough time to visit the Vihara and thus missed some of Sri Lankas best carvings.
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