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Mamallapuram
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3rd January 2005 (Day trip)
Mamallapuram sits about 50 kilometres along the coast from Chennai. We took a local bus for a day trip to see the popular town that boasts the remains of ancient Indian civilisation. We liked this town alot, and hope to go back there before we leave.
Our bus trip took us through some very badly hit beach villages, where people were in tents being handed out food from trucks due to the Tsunami disaster. Everything we saw looked very orderly and under control. To be honest, the tent camps looked and felt little different from the usual fishing villages of thatched huts.
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Mamallapuram is famous for its shore temple. Luckily this was not hit in the disaster as the World Heritage had previously erected a rock wall around it, (to prevent it from sea and wind errosion). As you see from the foreground the sea got very close to the temple after destroying a section of the wall.
The shore temple represents the last phase of Pallava art and was originally constructed in the 7th century. It's been rebuilt by a few people since then. It looks very weathered, but this adds to the romance of the temple.
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We 'cheese' next to the "Nandi" the bull.
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From the beach, you can see the busy local people clearing up after the disaster. This involves burning fishing nets and rubbish that has been thrown up on the beach. Apparently, 20 people died in this small town.
It was very sad to be on a beach where so many peoples lives had changed in moments...
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... especially the fishermen.
They were everywhere trying to get their livelihoods back together.
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Restaurants and hotels are being repaired, and there is a very positive attitude about the locals as they reconstruct their buildings, and lives.
They were all so pleased to see us. Not many tourists have made it here in the last week. Whilst we don't walk around throwing money at the locals, we were pleased to be here spending our money.
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This boat had been sent up into town and you can see where the waves hit and broke this fiberglass boat.
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More damage. A few of the hotels and a temple along the beach look like this. Typically 80% of the building was standing while the front 20% had been pulled off into the ocean as the sea receded.
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We couldn't help take this picture. In Kolkata it took three men to mow a small lawn in the shade.
In Mamallapuram, the job was reserved for this sari clad woman to complete in the midday sun.
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This is Krishna's "butter ball". A huge overhanging rock that seems to magically rest at this precarious angle.
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The Five Rathas are temples cut from single pieces of solid sand stone. Simply amazing.
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This is Arjuna's Pennace. A rock face carved with gods and animals.
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In direct contrast to some of the godly carvings around this town was this one of a cow been milked. An amusing juxtaposition, as it sat on the same rock face of Vishnu holding up whatever it was about to collapse on the world.
A nice analogy typical of the people of this coast. When the sky fell down they just kept going.
Turn your TV off now. You'll feel much better for it!
Give to the aid agencies in the short term. Then book a flight to come and spend your money with them as that will help them in the long term.
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Mamallapuram is famous for its ancient rock carvings and this tradition continues. On the way to the Five Rathas are some 200m plus of carving workshops & shops on both sides of the road. They carve and sell everything from a mortar and pestle, to Hindu gods and the odd naked woman.
In this photo you can see the very friendly local blacksmith shaping the rock carvers chisels.
This place is so passionate about stone that it even has a carving museum. Unfortunately, it is one of the worst museums, if not the worst museum that we have ever visited. We've seen some real shite too!
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Trimurti cave.
The Trimurti are the three main Hindu gods of Bhrama, Vishnu and Shiva. Each has his own cave here.
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