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Madurai
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10-11th January 2005.
Madurai is a temple town in the middle of Tamil Nadu state. The main temple is the Sri Meenakshi Sundareswar temple. Madurai is thought to be some 2,500 years old, making it the oldest city in Southern India.
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The temple has four main towers which sit at the cardinal points of the compass. They are all elaborately carved with mythical animals and gods. The highest is the Southern tower at an enormous 48.8m.
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Our favourite tower-sculpture is this Shiva worshipper and Shiva Lingam.
Lingum worship is thought to of originated in the Harrapan Valley, now in present day Pakistan. It is based on some fairly simplistic fertility worship rituals.
However, to a Westerner, less cultured than ourselves, this could look like a very camp man coveting a rather thick-set penis.
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The locals here are lovely.
Every tenth group wanted to have a photo with us.
There were many large groups of men clad in black shirts and black longis (Sarongs) on pilgrimage. Apparently the groups are like a kind of pilgrimage support group of men abstaining from meat, alcohol, drugs and sex.
We had a group on our next night train who sung and clapped their hands for 3 hours straight, before finally collapsing from their trance into a deep sleep.
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We think this family had come on a pilgrimage for the young girl, who has had her head freshly shaved and painted yellow as part of the rite.
Whilst mum had great teeth, her lack of English, and our lack of Tamil meant that we don't really know what they were doing.
The people here are very friendly though!
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Another favourite temple pastime, is chucking stuff at your deities. The Hindus throw balls of Ghee (butter) at the gods.
It appears that the ultimate prize has been won, as two people have got it in her eye.
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The Hall of 1,000 pillars was simply breath-taking. Over one thousand elaborately crafted pillars support the temple roof.
This rather busty example is riding a peacock.
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The temples are big business. Pilgrims come from all over the country and that deity doesn't get plated in silver and gold by the tooth fairy.
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This guys "game" is good. He dresses as a Saddhu (holy man) and then asks tourists to take his picture. He then rather forcefully asks for money for food, but does seem to take Jason's "NO" with a certain lack of grace.
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A palm reading in progress.
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The local treat (sweet potato).
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The tailors markets were a fascinating mix of temple architecture and business.
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To visit the other sights in town, we hired the services of a cyclo. He was ace.
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Tirumalai Nayak Palace was built in 1636.
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For a small amount of backsheesh (a bribe) the security guard let us take photos.
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Sunset in the busy little town of Madurai.
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